L'entrecote: Indulging on Steak Frites in Manila

 

     Steak and Fries. Three glorious words that can easily arouse anyone’s appetite.  Recognized as Steak Frites in France, the lovely pairing of crisp fries with a large slab of sirloin has increasingly become a staple in the European diet. Walk into any brasserie in France, Belgium, or Switzerland, and they’re most likely to have Steak Frites at the top of their menu. Filipinos have been accustomed to the Western approach of eating steak. Often times, we douse the meat in brown, starchy gravy with a passé topping of sautéed mushrooms. In Europe however, they choose to savor it with a classy siding of béarnaise – a sauce composed of clarified butter, emulsified egg yolks, and herbs. 

Steak Frites
 (Image taken during my 2nd visit)

     One need not go to Europe just to be able to sample authentic steak frites. Finally, the concept that originated in Geneva, Switzerland in the 40s, has been brought to the country by Chef Martin Kaspar. The place started out with such a limited menu, displaying a certain audacity that I couldn’t help but admire. I wondered… how can a restaurant last on steak and fries?  Attempting to entice the Filipino palate with a concept that breaks our steak-eating tradition of steak & rice or steak & mashed potato could be quite a challenge. It intrigued me so much that I was lured to try it out myself. 

Cozy furnishings

     L’entrecote exudes a cozy, bistro-like ambiance. The place was surrounded with large, colorful paintings that complemented its vibrant, red furnishings. One can choose to be seated on plush leather couches or wooden chairs. During lunch time, the place caters to mostly families, expats and executives. At dinner time, the place transforms into an intimate date setting. The waitresses are attentive – dressed in a French maid-inspired outfit, but made to look more tasteful.

     As mentioned, the menu wasn’t vast during my first visit in L’entrecote. Aside from the Geneva (salad, steak, fries, and dessert) and the L’entrecote set (sans the dessert), they presented vegetarian and lunch offerings such as Perch fish, steak sandwiches and cheese fondue. Yet recently, in my second visit, I noticed that they’ve included an array of meat cuts like wagyu rib eye, tenderloin, and tomahawk. There were also new dishes such as lobster tail, lapu lapu and grilled tenderloin tips to name a few.

     I was salivating as I gazed at the other table’s sirloin. Immediately, we ordered the Geneva set that came with mixed green salad, Entrecote steak, UNLIMITED FRIES, and a dessert of our choice!

Complimentary Bread

               I loved how chewy and moist the bread was with its warm and crusty exterior.

Mixed Green Salad
tossed in House Dressing w/ Walnuts

     The salad was incredibly fresh. The peppery flavors from the bitter greens were complemented well by the sweet and tangy vinaigrette.  A nice crunch and sweetness was added by the chopped walnuts.  

US Entrecote Steak (P 1190.00 - single Geneva Set)
w/ a Secret Special Herb Butter Sauce

A plate of steak for two

     I was stunned to see the glorious vision in front of me Sirloin steak, cooked medium-rare, literally drowning in herb butter sauce. It stimulated my senses! At the same time, it overwhelmed me. I worried about finishing a huge slab meat and all the calories I was bound to consume. It better be good, and thankfully… it was delicious (not mind-blowing though). Don't expect the meat to melt effortlessly in my mouth. In the first place, a sirloin entrecote cut is known for being one of the leanest cuts of meat. Sirloin steaks don’t possess the intricate marbling of a Wagyu beef or a rib eye – that’s why medium rare to medium is the preferred doneness for this kind of steak as to maintain its juices. L’entrecote was able to achieve this, serving us tender and flawlessly cooked meats according to our preferences. It was nicely pink inside with a slight sear on the outside.

A slice of beautifully seared medium-rare L’entrecote

     What I thought brought the dish to a higher level of goodness was the secret herb butter sauce. I could taste the bright flavors of herbs like mint, tarragon, and parsley, which balanced the richness of the sauce. The butter accented the steak beautifully, compensating for the meat’s lack of fat. It was a little too satiating though by the time I was about to finish my steak.  Another problem I had with the dish was the steel pan. Candles were lit below the stand of the pan to keep the butter from hardening. This cooked the meat further, making the last few slices of meat medium well and chewy.

Unlimited  Fries

     I am such a sucker for fries and can eat them with practically anything! The frites in L’entrecote are the shoestring type of fries, which I adored. It maintained a lovely crispness that was so addictive. We couldn’t keep our hands away from the bowl. It tasted even better with the butter sauce! 

Profiteroles w/
Vanilla Ice Cream & Chocolate Sauce

L'entrecote Raspberry and
Walnut Iced Vacherin Cake

Dessert certainly isn’t L’entrecotes cup of tea. They were quite forgettable. The profiteroles tasted prominently of flour while the Vacherin was just mediocre.

    
     It may not be the best steak I ever tasted but it’s definitely an experience that I would encourage others to try. Dining at L’entrecote twice says so much about how I enjoyed and appreciated the concept. You might want to set your diet aside and allow yourself to find comfort in a sinful plate of steak frites without having to go all the way to France!  

L'entrecote

Burgos Circle

The Fort, Taguig City

Contact No: 856-4858